Italy November 2005 - Day 6 - Rome
Rome
We got up early and headed out to the the area where all the major archaeological sites are. We had a lot on our agenda, but luckily, most of the sites are very close together. When we came up the stairs from the metro (subway) I got my first glimpse of the Colosseum. All I can say is, wow. I knew it was big, but it is seriously huge and imposing. I can only imagine how the Romans felt upon seeing it since they weren't used to huge stadiums (like we are today).
After I was done staring at the Colosseum, our first stop was Domus Aurea, the great palaces built by Emperor Nero after fire destroyed most of the city. Rumor has it that Nero was behind the fires so that he could clear out parts of the city for his palace. Later, after Nero was killed the area was filled in and buildings were built on top of the site to remove the stain of Nero. The palace is now in the process of being excavated and preserved. The scale is miraculous and it's beyond the imagination to imagine it with colored frescos, gold and mother of pearl inlays.
Next we went across the street to the Colosseum to go inside. We walked around to the entrance on the other side (no short walk) and waited in the line to go through security screening to get inside. Once inside, we walked around the first level and looked down into the labyrinth that was below the main floor. Then we went upstairs and got a good look from the next level where you can almost hear the roar of 55,000 people. For being almost 2000 years old, it is remarkable that it is still standing and we wondered how much longer it could withstand the elements and the press of the modern world.
The Arch of Constantine is right next to the Colosseum and we got a great look at it when we were on the second level. We left the Colosseum and got another view from the ground on our way to the Roman Forum.
I really enjoyed walking around the Roman Forum and getting to be among the ruins. The ruins in the forums are of varying dates because various emperors added to or changed their purpose on multiple occasions. We wandered around a bit and also took a look at Caesar's Forum as well.
At this point it was time for lunch and our digital camera was warning us of a low battery so we went back to the hotel to change shoes and have lunch while the battery charged. We had some smashed sandwiches at a little cafe near our hotel and then went back to the sites after picking up our camera battery.
When we arrived back to the ancient center, we walked across some platforms built above the Forum of Augustus and Trajan's Forum and Markets. Trajan's Forum was quite impressive a large piece of the market complex behind the forum is remarkably intact, though you cannot go inside. We also took a moment to look at Trajan's Column, built to commemorate the emperor's victory over the Dacians. Part of the column was covered by scaffolding, presumably for restoration purposes.
Next we went back to the Roman forums and finished our exploration there before we headed up to the Palatine. The Palatine was the place of residence of emperors and aristocrats. It was a very pleasant site where you can walk across the ruins while a gentle breeze floats through the trees and birds sing around you. We were again impressed with the scale of some of the buildings. In addition, the hill offers some wonderful views of the city.
We left Palatine and took a bus to Circus Maximus. Circus Maximus was the most important chariot racing venue in the city and it is huge. It is now just a green valley with a walkway around it, but once was capable of holding 300,000 spectators. We looked at it from a distance and also got a view of some monuments of Palatine rising above it.
Just a little way down the street are the Baths of Caracalla. Again, we were amazed by the grand scale of the baths. The baths were completed in 217 A.D. by Caracalla and remained in use until the 6th Century. It had a capacity for 1600 bathers and took 11 years to build. It wasn't just baths, on the property were art galleries, library, shops and gymnasiums. This was another serene and peaceful monument with lovely foliage and animals about. Again, the buildings were so immense, it was hard to imagine them as bath houses.
It was only about 4 PM when we left the baths so we headed for the Pantheon. I was very excited to see this impressive building and indeed it was massive and quite spectacular. The Pantheon is one off the best preserved of the ancient Roman monuments, built by Hadrian in 118 A.D. I was a little disappointed though that it is actually in use today as a church. Apparently 7th Century Christians claimed to be plagued by demons as they passed by so it was converted to a church. We weren't sure if the marble on the inside was part of the original structure or added to the church, probably the latter. It was gaudy and incongruous with the Roman architecture. Now, don't get me wrong, we have enjoyed some wonderful churches, but something about converting this Roman temple to a church seemed, well, sacrilegious. I would feel similarly if, say, the Duomo in Florence had been converted from a church to say, a pagan temple. It just seems wrong somehow.
Near the Pantheon is the Piazza Navona so we headed that way to see the famous fountains and bustling square. On the way, we picked up some super delicious gelato - some of the best of the entire trip. I had mixed berry and dark chocolate and the flavors mixed together for a taste like a raspberry truffle. Wonderful.
We finished our gelato in the piazza and then left to go do a little shopping. We purchased a few more gifts and then caught a bus back to the hotel where we took it easy for a bit before we went to dinner. Our meal was one of the best we've had on the trip. We both enjoyed two courses of food and they also served us some complimentary champagne before the meal and some after dinner wine at the end. I'd never had desert wine, but apparently when I told them in Italian that I was full (one of the few restaurant phrases i know other than how to order the amount and type of wine we want and asking for the bill), they felt we needed the digestivo and brought it to us free of charge.
We headed back to our hotel, still stuffed, but very satisfied and went right to sleep after a very long and busy day of sight-seeing.
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